Endurance Horse Training Basics: Saddle Slipping

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One of the scariest things to have happen at an endurance ride, is to have a panicky horse galloping towards you with it’s saddle underneath it’s belly.

This has happened to me. More than once.  Not to my own horses, mind you; I’ve been in the path of other horses as they run in fear usually back towards camp.

It’s not a fun thing to experience for anyone, least of all the horse or the owner of the horse that is panicking. Even worse is when the horse that had his saddle slip manages to get a hind hoof and leg through the stirrup on the saddle.  I’ve seen that happen twice and can say that it is a pretty ugly injury.  The hide is pretty much stripped right off of the leg.

I’ve seen these kinds of saddle-under-belly wrecks happen often enough to feel that it’s important enough for me to train my horse’s to deal with having their own tack slip and fall.

I’ve done this training with every single endurance horse that I have ever had.  For all of my horses this has been a part of their basic training that starts with hobble training, tying, ropes and groundwork.

Usually that training happens prior to the horse being ridden but not always.  It does always happen prior to me taking them to a public event.

The only time that hasn’t happened was when I first tried Bo on a ride prior to purchasing him.  Fortunately his previous owner had also done a lot of groundwork and rope work with him so that anything I did in addition was just to reinforce what he’d already been taught – which is one of the most important lessons a horse can know:  when you get in a bind, wait to be rescued!

At the bottom of this post I’ll show a video or two with Bo and his reaction to having his saddle slide down on his side.  I also will include a few still photos.  My horse’s are both used to me doing this kind of work with them so I had no problem having them stand a bit longer in an uncomfortable position to get the photos.  I wouldn’t recommend doing that with a horse that is experiencing this kind of thing for the first time.

Having a saddle slip or fall under a horse can be a really scary thing for a horse, especially the first time.  It can be just as scary for the rider if the rider happens to still be attached in some way to the saddle.  Perhaps that is one other very good reason for doing this kind of work with a horse – so that if a rider ever does happen to get tangled up or caught up underneath a horse in some way, the horse will freeze and stand still.  Less chance of an injury to the rider, the horse, or the tack that way.

For doing this lesson you’ll need the following: 

1)  A horse that has already done the basic rope and hobble training (see my previous blog posts).

2)  A horse that has also learned how to tie and stand quietly.

3)  The horses needs to have handled both item #1 and item #2 above in a calm manner.  It’s okay if it took two or more lessons to achieve that, so long as the horse now understands the importance of remaining calm and waiting to be rescued should he get tangled or caught in something.

4)  A safe area to work that has good footing, no obstacles and no way for the horse to escape.

5)  A halter and longe line.  I used a collar on Bo; he is very well trained in it.  I would recommend anybody else stick with a regular halter unless their horse is already VERY well trained in a neck collar.

6)  An old saddle is preferable to use.  It’s also a good idea to remove the stirrups, or tie them up.

7)  At this stage in your horse’s training, he should already be responding to voice cues (trot, ho/stop, reverse, etc.) while on a longe line or while being free-longed.

Always keep these safety tips in mind when doing this kind of real life experience training with your horse: 

1) Take things slowly and include every step for safety and acceptance.

2) Stay alert and out of harm’s way, no matter how experienced you are horses can be unpredictable.

3)  Keep a pocket knife handy in case of emergency; use it only if you can do so without endangering yourself.

4)  Ask another person to keep an eye on you.

5)  Some horses may respond better if this particular lesson is done after a workout and is not fresh.

6)  Wear gloves, good shoes or boots and consider using a helmet.

I start with longing the horse first with the saddle and girth on snugly.  I have also done this lesson minus the longe line in an open field (I don’t have a “round pen”).

I don’t like working horses in a lot of real small circles; however for this particular lesson having a smaller enclosed area is going to be safer.

After I have longed the horse in a circle both directions for a few minutes with the saddle on, I will then ask the horse to stop and loosen the girth.

Do some reinforcement on the voice commands with your horse.  Make sure he is listening and will stop when asked.  I haven’t done a blog post specifically on longe line training.  I’m trying to target most of these basic endurance horse training lessons towards riders who are already riding their horses.  I know that just because *I* consider longing and free-longing a horse in an enclosed area and having it obey voice commands a basic part of training that is done prior to riding doesn’t mean that everybody does.   Please take the time to work on longe lining or free longe training prior to doing this particular lesson.  It is just as important as the basic hobble, rope, and tying lessons that I have covered.

If your horse has withers, like Bo does – you’ll have to give the saddle a little bit of help or else it won’t fall to the side on it’s own.  I start by pushing the saddle over just an inch or two and then asking the horse to walk or trot again in a circle.  Usually the saddle will move over more on it’s own.  Reassure your horse and praise him if he should stop once he knows the saddle is moving.  Great!  Keep the girth fairly snug at this point.

While having the saddle slip over a few inches and having your horse stop and not move is a good start, I find that it is important to keep up the work until your horse can handle having the saddle completely over on the side or under the belly.  Keep working slowly and getting the horse used to going both directions and having the saddle slip on both sides.  You may need to loosen the girth another hole or two in order to give the saddle the freedom to slip all of the way over.

Remain calm and reassuring to your horse during these sessions.  I like to sometimes lift the saddle back up onto the horse’s back and tighten the girth.  I also like to release the girth, allowing the saddle to completely fall to the ground underneath the horse.  It’s good for your horse to be able to deal with both situations.

It can be frightening to do this the first time, especially with a horse that may have a tendency to panic or over-react.  Be sure to get extra help on hand to help.  Most horses that have been through the other basic training that I’ve covered by this point will handle this well.  I have had horses take to bucking and jumping about – that usually lasts for about thirty seconds (though at the time, it seems like a LONG thirty seconds).  STAY CALM if your horse is one of the ones that reacts strongly.  Every horse I’ve done this with has figured it out and the lesson stayed with them.

Why is this training important?

By doing this training in advance at home, in a safe and controlled environment you are giving your horse the education he needs to go to an endurance ride or other public event.  Trust me, you don’t want to be the person walking back to camp following the trail of dust and broken tack or blood that was left behind by your horse.  Worrying about how badly injured your horse might be but also worrying about what kind of chaos and damage or additional injuries that your horse could be causing to other riders and their mounts.

Disclaimer: These lessons I am covering are meant to be for endurance horses or for horses that travel that already have some training and conditioning base on them. They reflect my experience and opinions and are not guaranteed to be effective in the hands of others nor are they meant to be the only method or means of training a horse in order to accomplish the same things. Working with horses can be incredibly risky and dangerous. You should only try these methods with proper supervision or assistance from an experienced trainer or horse person that you trust. If you have any questions or comments feel free to email me or comment in my blog. Happy trails, Karen

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Endurance Rider Basics: What to do when….

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Endurance Horse Training Basics: More on Tying

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For the start of this lesson, I have tied Chief to a hitching post with a cotton lead rope in a quick release knot. The snap cannot touch the ground.

I want to start to get into more advanced ‘basic training’, but before I do I want to go over the basics of tying and emphasis again how important it is to have a horse that is trained to tie well.  This is something that can’t be practiced enough.  Endurance horses need to be able to stand tied to numerous different objects and be able to do it without panicking, pulling back or digging holes, pawing, chewing or screaming their heads off.  The only way to achieve this is by practice, practice, practice!

My horses are so used to the things I do with and to them that very little ever surprises or frightens them.  Different animals respond to different techniques.  For example, one horse may react to something new by a quick startle and then lets out a sigh of relief when they realize what it was that got their attention (such as a flag waving).  Another horse my try and bolt, while another one spins around, snorts and then needs ten minutes to come down from the adrenalin high.

Now the slack in the rope has been taken up. Horse's do this on their own all of the time. For training purposes, it should only be done after a horse ties well and gives to pressure. Start by tying shorter and shorter.

Something to keep in mind when working with any horse is that they all have it in them to react in ways that can lead to a wreck.  I have often been teased over having Arabs (some call them Airheads, etc.).  I like working with Arabs – they are intelligent and usually very quick to learn.  The problem arises when they learn what you don’t want them to.  This is why it is so important to start with the basics and spend as much time as you need before progressing to the next step.  Trying to rush through things and go too fast may result in a horse having issues that could last for years or for the rest of the horse’s life.  If working with another breed, remember that any breed is capable of having a ‘flight response’.  Sometimes it’s non Arabians that I have seen do some of the goofiest and unpredictable things ever.  It’s not fair to blame the horse when sometimes it’s a matter of training.

Chief knows he is 'stuck' and has no more slack in the rope, so lowers his head and waits for me to release him.

Each time I take a horse out, it’s a training experience for them.  I think this is a good approach and am always looking for ways to do something ‘new’ that hasn’t been done with them before.  Once you do enough of those ‘new things’ with them, they usually are not terribly amused and don’t put out a lot of effort reacting.  These things include shaking out trash bags in their vicinity, turning on a power tool, throwing a ball over or under them – the basic things you would normally do to desensitize or sack a horse out.

Many horses will wrap their ropes around buckets, feed bags, etc. It's good to know that they won't panic if that happens.

On the long XP this summer, many horses early on would jump and pull back whenever somebody got on top of their horse trailer.  Obviously, many of these horses had never experienced that before.  Nor had they experienced bales of hay being thrown down onto the ground around them.  Most of these horses learned that this was no big deal and stopped panicking over it.  There were times that horses broke loose and went running amock through camp due to some of these new experiences.  All things that could have been taught ahead of time.  This is where it pays to think outside the box and try to expose your horse to as many types of situations as you can think up.  Me?  Prior to the ride I got on top of my trailer with both horses tied to it and waved my flag over their heads.  The first time they had a “whoa, what is that?” reaction and had a quick startle, but then it was like “that’s just our mom trying to entertain us”.

Today I took a few photos of Chief tied to a hitching post.  Right now, we have a big storm or two coming in and it’s really windy so we had the added fun of the wind blowing things around while we were working.  This is another great training opportunity for a green or new horse;  even if you just tie the horse while it’s windy it gives them the experience of being tied in the wind.

The first thing I did was tie Chief up with a quick release knot on the hitching post.  Then I moved him over to one end of the post and asked him to lower his head so that I had enough slack to wrap his rope over the end of the hitching post.  This took up all of the slack in the lead.  He simply kept his head down in response to the pressure when he realized what had just happened.  This is the kind of thing that needs to be worked up to slowly and should only be done after the other basics such as hobbling and rope work on the legs has been done.  Start by tieing your horse shorter and shorter.  Horses are notorious for getting their lead ropes wrapped around objects and becoming ‘stuck’.  Once a horse learns to give to pressure they will wait to be rescued, or whenever possible will often learn how to untangle themselves.

After doing that exercise with Chief, I went and got a bucket and clipped it onto the snap that is on the hitching post.  I often feed the horses this way especially when I want to feed separately, or after returning from a ride.  Horse’s that are hot and itchy will often rub their faces and heads on their buckets which can lead to having their rope getting wrapped or caught up in the bucket.  In this case, I had to help Chief out so that I could get a photo showing the bucket being supported by the rope.  This is another great exercise once the horse is handling the other training well.  I’ve seen horse’s get wrapped up in their buckets at rides more times than I can count.  Having your horse do that and not panic, is great.

Sometimes a hay bag or bucket will get stuck on their nose. Looks like Chief was so worried he went to sleep(ha)!

Next I got out a hay bag and hung it up on the noseband of Chief’s halter.  He stood quietly so I could take photos.  Over the years I have looked outside to see a horse with a hay bag over the top of their heads.  Next I pulled the bag all the way up over his head.  I think Chief just thought I was putting a really poorly designed fly mask on him.  He stood for that while I took a couple of photos.  The hardest part was keeping it from blowing away in the wind!

I've had this happen before - this time I did it on purpose. Chief just thought it was a fly mask!

Being able to do some of these things with your horse will take some time. Don’t expect to be able to go out and do it all in one session.  It may take weeks, or even months to work up to being able to have your horse stand quietly and calmly while you do some of these exercises.  This is the kind of training that enable you to take your horse to an endurance ride and be confident that he is not going to panic or get into a huge wreck or cause a bad accident because he got tangled in a rope, or got caught in something on the trail or in camp.

For safety purposes, always use a cotton rope, wear gloves and have a sharp knife handy.  Don’t push your horse beyond what he is comfortable handling.  Take your time and make sure your horse stays calm during this type of work.   Different horses will progress at different rates.  This is the type of work you can do in addition to everything else – riding lessons, conditioning rides, etc.  Treat each time out as a learning experience and before you know it your horse will have enough of the basics down to be considered safe to take out in public.

Disclaimer: These lessons I am covering are meant to be for endurance horses or for horses that travel that already have some training and conditioning base on them.  They reflect my experience and opinions and are not guaranteed to be effective in the hands of others nor are they meant to be the only method or means of training a horse in order to accomplish the same things.  Working with horses can be incredibly risky and dangerous.  You should only try these methods with proper supervision or assistance from an experienced trainer or horse person that you trust, and at your own risk.  If you have any questions or comments feel free to email me or comment in my blog.   Happy trails, Karen

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Useful Android Phone Apps for Trail and Endurance Riders

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It seems like a lot of riders these days have smart phones.  I resisted for a long time, but then when my phone started to die on the XP this summer I ended up getting a new Android phone while we were in Wyoming.  By that point I had already seen how useful they could be from other riders.  I’ve added a lot of apps to the phone that are fun, but there are also many that are practical and that I find useful.  Many of these apps are also available for iPhone.  For this post, I’m going to list my favorite FREE Andoid apps.

Before I get to the list I should mention that  many of the favorite apps that I use regularly came installed on the phone.  I’m not going to include those but will mention them briefly.  I simply love the voice activated navigation.  The camera and video are both easy and quick to use as is sending messages and images out to contacts, FB, Twitter, etc.  That all came set up on the phone.

1.  Life 360 Ultimate Safety App.  There is more than one variation of this app.  One of the ones I used also included the Sex Offender Search, just in case you want to see if any of your neighbors are in the sex offender registry.  The reason why I like these apps is because I can use it both for checking in, and also for sending for help.  Granted, if the phone works I can also call for help – however, this app will send the GPS coordinates with a link to a map that the recipient can click on and see exactly where you are.  I’ve not actually needed it for sending an emergency signal but I have often used it for ‘checking in’.  This way I can let others know where I am, either while traveling to a ride or while riding.  Should something actually happen where I can’t call for help, or end up needing help but have no signal later on somebody will at least have an idea of my whereabouts based upon my last check in point.

2.  Color Flashlight.  This is great for finding your way in the dark.  It works as a flashlight, can also do strobe and colors or flash a help text message.  I find it amazing how many things these phones can do.

3.  GPS Essentials.    This lets you navigate, manage waypoints, tracks and routes.  It is basically like having a dedicated GPS.  Only recommended to use for short periods unless you have a way to recharge your phone.  You could also use this app to find your coordinates in the event of an emergency – you could call for help the old fashioned way by dialing 911 and then reading them the waypoint information.

4.  Gas Buddy.  This is a great way to find the closest and least expensive fuel.  It also shows additional details like including details on which stations also have propane.  Very handy when traveling with horses in an unfamiliar area.  Hint:  When traveling with horses and you can’t find a fuel station that refills propane bottles, most Wal Mart’s do tank exchanges, so use your phone’s navigation to find the nearest Wally World.

5.  Scanner Radio.  In case something happens while you are traveling either at home, or where you are (if away at a ride) – you can now tune into the local police and/or fire radio and listen.  If you happen to get stuck in traffic you can tune in to see what the problem is and perhaps find out how long your delay might be.  With this app, you can listen to police and fire departments from all over the world.

6.  Knots Guide.  Ever forget how to tie a particular knot?  You just never know when something like that could come in handy; such as if you decide to tie up a high-line for your horse.  I know I need a refresher once in awhile on some types of knots.

7.  Simple Weather Alert.  I’m not sure I would have wanted to have had my Android phone and this app when we were in the tornado shelter in Oak, Nebraska this past May, or for the first two weeks of the XP ride.  Now though, I like that I get alerts for severe weather based upon my GPS location.  It’s been pretty accurate so far.  Right  now it’s telling me that storms are heading out way! (finally)

8.  iTriage.  I haven’t needed to use this app, but if I ever do it could be a lifesaver.   Here is a list of features, from the app page:

* Proprietary Symptom to ProviderTM pathway: search symptoms, learn about potential causes, and then be directed to the most appropriate treatment facility or doctor
* Find the closest facilities and doctors from your location
* Maps and turn-by-turn directions to all provider facilities
* Thousands of medical symptoms, diseases, procedures, and medications
* Clear, concise, and useful information
* The most updated and comprehensive national directory of hospitals, urgent cares, pharmacies, physicians, outpatient clinics, and community health clinics
* Wait times for select Hospital Emergency Rooms and Urgent Care facilities
* Pre-registration feature for select Hospital Emergency Rooms
* Emergency hotlines, and physician and nurse advice lines
* Save your personal healthcare facilities, doctors, diseases, procedures, medications, and health plan advice lines

9.  VETFINDER.    Try this out beforehand, as the reviews are only so-so and there aren’t that many of them.   More:  VETFINDER locates your position and finds veterinarians and veterinary hospitals near you.  Using the integrated filter tool, you‘re able to refine your search at any time.
Through that, VETFINDER locates experts and specialists, gives information on accepted payment methods, available parking and provided treatment options. Do you have an emergency? VETFINDER’s option will only show on-duty veterinarians in your area.

10  CRADAR.  This is another app that I haven’t yet actually used but if I ever need it, could come in handy.  This app will detect if you have fallen from your horse and will send a text message to an emergency contact.   More:  CRADAR (CRAsh Detection And Response) is a man-down application that uses the accelerometer to detect a fall and sends a text message alert to a specified emergency contact, using the GPS to include a link to a map with your exact location.

11.  Where’s My Droid.   If you are riding and traveling with horses, then this app is a good one to have.  You never know when you might drop or set down your phone and forget where.  Usually in the past when I haven’t been able to find my phone I’ve been able to call it from another line and listen for the ring.  Where’s My Droid will show you on a map where the phone is, and can also send a message to your phone that will cause it to set off loud alarm.  If you think your phone has been stolen this app also has a wipe feature to erase all of your personal information.

12.  Zedge.  If you’ve got a Droid, you need Zedge!  Pick your ringtones, alert sounds and wallpapers.  LOTS to choose from, including many really good horse related ringtones.  Most of my regular contacts all have their own dedicated ringtone.  When somebody calls that isn’t in my contact list I hear The Who singing “Who Are You?”, and sometimes change it to “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” — because it’s sure to be one of those! 

13.  Google Sky Map.  This one is just for fun.  Ever sit outside looking up at the stars and wondering what you were looking at?  I like this app because I no longer look like a dunce when I’m sitting in the hot tub with my husband at night and he asks me if I know what the brightest object is in the sky right then.  Just so long as I’ve cheated by checking my phone first, I can usually get it right and look somewhat intelligent.  Now he’ll read this and know my secret – oh well!

There are many, many more apps for both Androids and iPhones that endurance riders may find useful.  I haven’t installed very many of them – such as the one that helps you calculate your horse’s height and weight (because I’ve had all of my horses on scales, so know their weights) — or the one for tracking their health care (because I use Google Calendar for that stuff).   There are also fun games and even a really cool talking horse.   I have talking Tom Cat already, but may have to get the horse.

Most of my apps tend to be more useful to use while traveling and if others are interested I can do a post on some of those apps.  I try hard to keep battery useage down, and some apps are really hard on battery life.  Yes, there are apps for managing battery life.  Usually I find that if there is an app that I haven’t used and doesn’t appear that I ever will I’ll uninstall it.  I’ve been through a lot of different weather apps, as well as apps for finding local restaurants and other businesses.  The plain old voice navigation that came with the phone (that also does Google Search) is usually plenty sufficient.

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Endurance Basics: Training your horse to deal with a vet check

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They say that practice makes perfect, and in this case it certainly can’t hurt! The more you can do to prepare your horse ahead of time for what they are going to experience at an endurance ride, the better.

There are a lot of great books and websites that cover the basics for endurance riders.  There aren’t a lot of things (that I could find) that deal specifically with the finer points of exposing your horse to a real life simulation in advance of attending a ride. I can easily find a lot of information online that tells me what to expect, and that my horse must pass a pre-ride vet check, ect.

Let’s start with a horse that hasn’t been to an endurance ride before.  What does that horse need to be able to do in order to pass a vet check?  First off, he needs to be able to deal with standing in a line of horses.  Then, he needs to stand quietly and squarely in order to have his pulse and gut sounds taken.  He needs to be able to tolerate a vet opening up his mouth and pressing on his gums, and also doing a skin pinch test on his shoulder. Some vets do a much more thorough physical exam and may feel all four legs and pick up all four feet.  In addition to that, your horse needs to be able to trot out and back, stopping a safe distance from the vet and/or vet secretary.  Finally, if the horse passes he needs to be able to stand still long enough to have a grease number placed on his rump on either one or both sides.

I know it doesn’t sound all that difficult, and for those that have been doing it awhile – it’s second nature.  Yet, for a young, new or excited horse all of those things can be enough to cause the horse to get out of control, kick, bite, rear…..you name it.  Horse’s that riders can’t control in hand and that exhibit dangerous behavior are not ready to attend a public event.

The best place to start practicing vet check simulation training is after returning from a conditioning ride.  This way the horse learns that after you have finished riding, he is not yet done.  Here are some steps to practice:

1)  Pull tack (unless you ride in a region where that is seldom or never done).

2)  Check pulse rate.  You want your horse to be down to 60.  Some regions use a higher #, like 64.   If you are riding LD then stick with 60.

3)  Listen to gut sounds in more than one quadrant.  This is good to do anyway as you’ll learn what is ‘normal’ for your horse – something you should know about each horse prior to attending an endurance ride.  Here is a video showing how to check for gut sounds.

4)  Open your horse’s mouth and check for capillary refill.  Press your thumb into your horse’s gums and hold for a couple of seconds or until the skin turns pale.  Now count how long it takes for the color to come back.  It should come back quickly, in around 2 seconds or less.

5) Pinch your horse’s skin on the point of the shoulder.  Again, count how long it takes for it to go back.  It should be fairly elastic and snap back within 2 seconds.  If it takes 3, 4 or more seconds that could be a sign of dehydration.  In some older horses it  may take longer and that might be what is ‘normal’ for that horse.

6)  Start the physical exam now – use your hands to feel all four legs.  Pick up each hoof.  Use both hands to palpate your horse’s back and hindquarters.  Check both armpits and the girth area thoroughly.  Feel and look for any dings, rubs or wounds anywhere on the horse’s body paying particularly close attention to where tack goes.  Lift up your horse’s tail dock and check anal tone (or for any signs of rubbing or soreness if you ride with a crupper).  Check the back of the pasterns for signs of scratches of cracking.  This is a good way to get really acquainted with your horse’s body and to learn what is ‘normal’.

7)  Trot your horse out and back.  Work on a signal with your horse so he knows when you tug on the lead rope that it’s time to trot.  Practice stopping and standing quietly when you get back from the trot out.  Here is a previous post I did about teaching a horse how to trot out and back.

8)  Now check your horse’s pulse rate again with a stethoscope.  Even if you have a HRM of some sort, practice this part with a stethoscope.

9)  Use a carrot or something similar to simulate writing a number on both sides of your horse’s rump.

10)  Repeat having a friend do all of the above so your horse is used to being handled by somebody else.

For more details on what to expect at a ride, click here for a copy of the AERC Rider Handbook.

For those that want to cover all of the bases, also check your horse’s temperature.  This is seldom done at rides.  However, in light of the EHV-1 outbreak last summer we were required to log our horse’s temperatures twice a day while on the long XP ride.  While tedious to do that often for two months, it provided us with a good baseline of what ‘normal’ temperatures are pre and post ride both for the horse being ridden and the one being hauled in the trailer.

You can use a spreadsheet to write down all of your horse’s normal parameters.  While in the barn or out on the trail, index cards work really well.

When you are at an actual ride you’ll want to do a quick check over of your horse prior to presenting to the vet.   Remember that you, the rider are the one responsible for your horse.  If there is something wrong or that you notice that is not normal or that concerns you the vet will appreciate having you tell him or her, rather than the other way around.  Most ride vets are very helpful and want to work with you to get you and your horse safely through the ride. They are not the bad guy.

Most horses simply need the repetitiveness of a vet check simulation in order to handle it well when the time comes to do it ‘for real’.  Others may have problems such as trying to kick or bite and in those cases more training is required to work through those issues. Always be firm and consistent when doing this type of work with your horse.  He needs to learn that part of his job of being an endurance horse includes having good ground manners in the vet checks.

The following video was taken at the Tevis Cup one year and is of Suzanne Ford Huff’s horse Chase the Wind.  The vets at Tevis are generally more thorough when vetting horses compared to other rides.   This should give you a good idea though, of what to expect and how to approach the physical vet exam simulation with your own horse.

One other thing that may prove useful for a new horse is to practice what comes next at a vet check – the eating part.  Get together the same buckets and feed pans, crew bag and feed that you plan to use on an actual ride and set it up just like you would at a vet check.  It is best to do this after a ride, or perhaps even during one that way you won’t be feeding your horse more feed than he needs.  This way you and your horse will both get into a routine of sorts.  Learn what your horse’s favorite feeds are – does he like carrots or apples better?  What about mashes – is he a wheat bran kinda guy, or won’t touch it if it’s not rice bran?  My horse’s for example, won’t touch beet pulp at a vet check so I gave up even trying years ago and just pack the feed that I know they’ll eat.  Horse’s are a lot like us in that their preferences change, so prepare to offer an entire smorgasbord of choices.  I like to offer an Omolene 200/wheat bran mash, another feed pan of Strategy Healthy Edge, hay and usually an apple or a couple of carrots.  I add a little salt or electrolyte powder into the mashes as well.  If you choose to provide your electrolytes that way, this pre-practice training will allow your horse to get used to it.  And, if he refuses to eat it you’ll know that ahead of time and won’t be stuck at a vet check with a horse that refuses to eat!  Most horses will learn to eat feed with a little salt or electrolyte powder added if it’s provided that way to them all of the time.

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More phone apps

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These are not necessarily useful only for endurance riders, but for anybody using a Droid phone.  I found that some apps were battery hogs and have done away with those.  I have also learned that if I am at a ride and there is no cell service that I can put the phone in airplane mode, which turns off the phone’s ability to try and access a signal.  This will keep the battery working and still allow you to use the phone for other things.  Unless you are using an app that requires a GPS coordinate–then you can’t use the airplane mode feature.

1.  Lookout Mobile Security – Antivirus.  Here is what it does:

Security:
* Antivirus: Block malware, spyware, and trojans
* Scan each app you download to make sure it is safe
* Schedule daily or weekly scans. Get automatic, over-the-air, protection against the latest threats

Find My Phone:
* Locate your lost or stolen phone on a Google map even if GPS is turned off!
* Activate a loud alarm, even if your phone or tablet is on silent
* Log in to myLookout.com to locate your phone from any web browser, anywhere!

Backup & Restore:
* Securely backup your contacts to myLookout.com
* Restore them to an existing mobile device

2.  Advanced Task Killer.  When I’m not plugged in and know I’ll need my phone battery to last all day, I often use this app to kill all of the programs that don’t need to be eating up the battery.

3.  App Backp and Reinstall.  You can never have too many backups!  This app will be handy if you ever want to easily transfer all of your stuff over to a new phone.  I’ve used it and it worked great.

4.  App Monster.    This is similar to item #3, yet it will allow you to uninstall some of the pre-installed apps that come with your phone.  You may want to remove those items if you know you are never going to use them, or if you have found an app that works better.  It also has a share feature, in case you want to share the apps you like with your friends.

5.  Color Note.  Great way to take quick notes or make lists for later.  Here is more from the site:  Color Note is a simple notepad app. It give you a quick and simple notepad editing experience when you write notes, memo, email, message, shopping list and todo list. Color Note makes taking a note easier than any other notepad and memo apps.

6.  Gauge Battery Widget.  Great way to see how much battery you have left.

7.  Juice Defender.   This shows more than 7 million downloads.  More:  Battery Saver is a powerful yet easy to use power manager app specifically designed to extend the battery life of your Android device. Packed with smart functions, it automatically and transparently manages the most battery draining components, like 3G/4G connectivity and WiFi.

8.  Permission Dog.    This app lists all the applications you have installed and checks out what permissions each app is using.  Based on these permissions it sets how dangerous the application can be.  PermissionDog also supports realtime protection. Every time you launch an application a notification pops up and shows how many permissions the app is using and how dangerous that application is. (in case you missed reading the permissions when you downloaded the app).  I’ve been using this app for a long time and it works for me just like they say it does.

9.  Yelp.  I use Yelp mainly while traveling.  It’s a great way to find local restaurants, shops, etc. and then read reviews about them.

10.  Bubble Level.  This is a fun little app that lets you see if something is level.  For those riders that want to park level enough for their refrigerators to work, this could be useful!  Or say you just want to hang something up on the wall – just whip out your phone and use this app!

11.  Dropbox. I’ve used this for years on my regular computer.  Now it’s great that I can access all of those files and documents with my phone if I’d like.  I can also add photos that I take with my phone into a dropbox folder to access on my computer or share with others.   If you need a Dropbox account, it’s free.  Please use THIS LINK to join, as each person that I refer gives me more free space! (thanks!)  More:  Dropbox is a free service that lets you bring all your photos, docs, and videos anywhere. After you install Dropbox on your computer, any file you save to your Dropbox will automatically save to all your computers, your Android device, and even the Dropbox website! With the Dropbox app, you can take everything that matters to you on the go.

Read your docs or flip through your albums when you’re out and about. Save photos or videos to your Dropbox and share them with friends in just a couple taps. Even if you accidentally leave your Android in a taxi, your stuff is always safe on Dropbox.

Features:
• Always have your stuff with you, no matter where you are.
• Save photos and videos to your Dropbox.
• Share your photos and docs with family and friends.
• Save email attachments straight to your Dropbox.
• Easily edit docs in your Dropbox.

This is only a few more of the apps that I’ve used and like, that might be considered essential to have.  I am also using additional theme apps that make my phone look and work like an iPhone.  It’s kind of fun that way.   For those new to using an Android phone, you can access the Marketplace through your phone by selecting the Market icon.  You may find it easier to set up your account and browse through selections on your computer.  https://market.android.com

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Endurance Riding: Minimizing Wear and Tear on Your Horse

  Death Valley Encounter, Day 3. Photo by Steve Bradley.

In my last post I talked about trail etiquette on an endurance ride.  Common sense and courtesy towards other riders is very important.   I think that another topic that is also very important is about applying some of that same common sense and courtesy to your horse.  Many of us are interested in longevity for our horses.  We all want our horses to last a long time.

Over the years I’ve learned a thing or two about minimizing wear and tear on my horses.  How to ride in a way that cuts down on the chance of injuries and that helps achieve long term success.  Last year I rode more than I ever had before in a ride season – 3,600 miles.  Bo did roughly 2,100 of that and Chief did roughly 1,500 of that.  Both horses came through the season in pretty good shape and have since completed 150 miles each in the 2012 ride season.

The single most important lesson that I have learned is that my horses stay sound and can do just about anything if I keep them rated and don’t let them trot faster than 10 mph.  Most horses can very easily trot faster than 10 mph so this takes effort.

Using a GPS is very helpful when learning how each gait and speed feels.  Some horses can be very sneaky and are able to inch up their speed.  You may look at the GPS and see you are trotting along at about 8.5 mph, then before you know it your horse has moved up what might feel to be just a hair – yet when you look at the GPS again you are going 13 mph.  That is almost guaranteed to happen if you ride in a group or if your horse sees a horse ahead.  Or sees a horse behind.  I feel that rating a horse consistently is one of the hardest things about this sport.  It’s something that requires focus, determination and doesn’t come easy.

Riders who are more competitive will likely trot much faster than the 10 mph limit that I subscribe to.  As long as a horse has been conditioned to go that speed they can do it and be successful.  I find that it takes my horses two to three years to develop a working trot that allows them to travel even at 10 mph.  It doesn’t happen over night.  Once I started to keep my horse’s speeds toned down and rated them more consistently I found that I had virtually no lameness issues.  Now when I have a lameness with a horse it is generally not a result of how I’ve ridden them.

Death Valley Encounter, day 4. Photo by Steve Bradley.

The next most important thing is to pay attention to the footing and the trail.  Spend some time on foot in each type of terrain that you ride in so that you get a feel for how difficult it is for your horse to get through it.  I find it is often useful for me to get off and lead down anything very steep as it helps loosen up my knees.  Other riders like to tail their horses up anything steep.  Either way is a good opportunity to give your horse a break.

Make an effort to walk your horse through the rocky, muddy or deep sand sections and trot where the footing is good.  It helps to know the course that you are riding so that you can plan how to ride it.  I find when asking other riders what the footing is like, it pays to get two or more opinions.  One persons idea of rocky, deep sand or technnical may be completely different than someone else’s.

We knew at Death Valley a couple of weeks ago that we were going over a big mountain on technical singletrack trail that was VERY rocky.  Once down the other side we knew we’d be down in the flat valley in sand washes and on excellent footing.  By knowing this, I was able to walk over the hard rocky steep stuff and then make up time trotting in the good footing.  Many riders did the opposite of that.  Paying attention and thinking about this kind of thing can make a big difference to your horse.  Think wear and tear on joints, legs, your horse’s whole body and how controlling when and where you move out can bring them through the ride that day as well as through an entire career in the best condition possible.

How you ride your horse through varied terrain on rides affects not only your horse but the others around you.  I mentioned how there were riders at the last ride that weren’t attentive enough to know that they were trotting the hardest parts while walking the easiest (on their horse) parts of the trail.  This can be really irritating to others especially if you trot past them downhill, or uphill, passing them then when the footing becomes good and levels out you slow to a walk.  Now those riders who were walking the steep or rocky sections and want to trot on the good footing have to pass you again.  On a ride with a lot of elevation and footing changes it can become a never ending game of tag.

I’m not sure if riders are not thinking these things through, or if they are letting their horses choose.  Maybe they are so caught up in a conversation with another rider that the thought of considering the trail footing and elevation changes never crosses their mind?

A competitive horse will want to go all of the time, so it’s really up to the rider to stay focused enough on the trail conditions and how rating the horse consistently can minimize the wear and tear.  Our horses can go a long way, literally….if we pay attention to the details.  A thinking rider is perhaps the greatest thing you can do for your horse.

 

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